Vermouth is that essential cocktail ingredient, underpinning the Martini, Manhattan and Negroni, but it is also one that is overlooked at times. Vermouth is much more than just an ingredient in classic cocktails – or any cocktails for that matter, and its re-emergence into Australian drinkers’ repertoire comes at a time when consumers are increasingly interested in flavours, botanicals and drinks with a genuine story to tell. By Ashley Pini

Technically, vermouth is a fortified wine with an ABV that can range from a minimum of 14.5 per cent to a maximum of 22 per cent, and a wine content that must be higher than 75 per cent. It often includes wormwood among other botanicals used to create a bitterness that makes it such a good pre-dinner drink.

Generally speaking, vermouth falls into two categories – sweet and dry, but that’s a description truly at its simplest, with a growing number of producers now creating vermouths that stretch across the flavour spectrum.

The quality of vermouth is most influenced by the wine used at the base, while style and flavour are determined by the botanicals, and spirits used to fortify. Every brand has its own special recipe and, thanks to the resurgence of cocktails, we’re seeing an explosion of bespoke and artisan vermouth products available here in Australia. Most still come from France and Italy, and brands such as Carpano Antica Formula bring incredible heritage, in this case back to 1786 when Benedetto Carpano made his vermouth using white wine (Piedmont’s muscatel and rich wines from Southern Italy) and brewed mountain herbs.

It is, however, more than just wonderful stories and brands with an impeccable heritage that’s driving this category forward. Growth can also be attributed to consumers’ new-found interest in artisan products and lighter styles of drinks.

Solotel Group Bars Manager, Jeremy Shipley, is a vermouth convert, or in his own words, “I adore vermouth in all formats,” and he’s seeing vermouth taking a greater hold in his bars.

“It probably comes down to the trend of people wanting lighter styles of drinks, in both sugar and alcohol; not booze heavy cocktails.

“It’s also great to see bartenders embracing lighter style, fresh drinks to the point that specialty vermouth bars are now opening up here in Sydney, so that has had an impact on our drinking behaviour. Spritz and aperitif styles of cocktails have really taken off recently and the majority of these drinks are vermouth-based cocktails. Vermouth cocktails have been around for many years, so either way, it’s a trend that’s here to stay.”

Vermouth plays perfectly to the ‘aperitivo’ moment for a summer season that is likely to extend well beyond the traditional promise of autumn. A simple Vermouth Spritz: a good slug of vermouth with a splash of soda in a wine glass, packed with ice, fresh fruit and herbs.

The Vermouth Collective

To help raise the awareness of differing vermouth styles and regionality, Australia’s own Vermouth producer, Mark Ward from Regal Rogue, and former Martini Global Brand Ambassador, Giuseppe Gallo, have launched the Vermouth Collective along with founding member brands Carlo Alberto (Italy), Imbue (USA), Mancino (Italy), Oscar 697 (Italy), Regal Rogue (Australia), Sacred (UK) and Turin Vermouth (Italy).

“This category is steeped in such rich history and with the huge resurgence in craft vermouth from all over the world, this was an opportunity to bring everyone together as a collective to support us all,” Ward explained. “I am so pleased how well this has been received and the timing of activity like Vermouth Week, specialist vermouth bars and more innovation around the styles supports the momentum I am seeing in the category through Regal Rogue on a daily basis.”

The Vermouth Collective has a packed schedule in 2017 with the inaugural launch of Vermouth Week (November 7th-11th), Tales of the Cocktail (Scotland), Tales of the Cocktail (New Orleans), London Cocktail Week and Berlin Bar Convent.

Cocktails (provided by The Paddington Inn)

Aromatic
Serves 1

60ml Dolin Bianco Vermouth

60ml CAPI Tonic

1 Dehydrated grapefruit slice

1 Rosemary sprig

Method: Pour the vermouth and tonic into a glass. Fill with ice and stir. Garnish with the grapefruit slice and rosemary sprig.

Ripe

Serves 1

60ml Regal Rogue Wild Rosé Vermouth

60ml Sicilian soda

2 Lemon slices

4 Fresh raspberries

Method: Pour the vermouth and soda into a glass. Fill with ice and stir. Garnish with the lemon slices and raspberries.